Discover the truth about snail mucin in skincare, its benefits, potential risks like clogged pores, and why choosing the right products matters, especially for tweens. Learn how to navigate skincare products safely!
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How Far Down the Skincare Rabbit Hole Are You? Enter: Snail Mucin
One of the ways I gauge how far down the skincare rabbit hole my patients have gone is when they tell me they’ve added snail mucin to their routine. While snail mucin has gained popularity, not all mucin is created equal. With over 40,000 species of snails, each producing different types of mucin for survival, what’s actually in your product? The truth is, most brands don’t specify.
Video: TechEI
Why Is Snail Mucin So Popular in Skincare?
Snail mucin skyrocketed in popularity thanks to Korean beauty trends (K-beauty), which often introduce unique, natural ingredients. It appeals to consumers looking for products that offer both a luxurious experience and natural benefits. K Beauty tends to have products that apply with a cosmetic elegance or a unique experience. Snail mucin is an ingredient that is in line with both of these criteria - a product that has a natural source with a slick feel on application. The glistening, slick application of snail mucin is highly marketable, especially on social media.
Where Does Snail Mucin Come From? Is it Really From Snails??
Before getting into the potential effectiveness of snail mucin, let’s review what snail mucin is, where it is derived from, and whether what is in your skincare products is the same thing.
First off, not all snails are the same, not all mucin derived from snails is the same. There are over 40,000 species of snails. Snails do not all produce the same type of mucin and the mucin they produce varies based on the part of the snail it is found since the mucin serves different functions. For example, snails produce mucin along their feet to lubricate the surface and allow their bodies to adhere to the ground. The mucin produced along a snail’s back plays an antimicrobial role and protects the snail from dehydration. And, snails can produce mucin to serve varying functions such as protecting their eggs and as a barrier.
There are some limited studies on the mucin produced by specific species of snails to serve roles such as protecting the skin to manage radiation dermatitis, wound healing, antimicrobial effects, and barrier functions. Some small studies have only recently started to explore the potential benefits of very particular types of mucin produced by the Helix aspersa snail in managing skin cancer and very particular types of mucin produced by Cryptommphalus aspersa snail in managing photoaging of the skin.
Most of my patients who purchase snail mucin purchase on Amazon. Most snail mucin products I have come across make no specification of which snails the product derives its mucin from. Many products specify that the mucin is obtained by allowing snails to migrate across a surface and then retrieving the mucin left behind. This implies the mucin obtained is from the feet or bottom of the snail. The purpose of this particular type of mucin is to serve as an adherent and barrier property for the snail. This mucin is less likely to have direct antimicrobial or antioxidant properties as it tends to be thicker and designed to protect by creating a barrier.
The question as to whether snail mucin is effective boils down to which snail was used, where on the snail the mucin was retrieved, and the purpose the mucin is intended to serve the snail.
Are There Benefits to Using Snail Mucin in Skincare?
Snail mucin can be beneficial—but only in specific contexts. Some studies show that mucin from certain snail species from particular parts of their bodies may help with wound healing, radiation dermatitis, or photoaging. However, the source matters:
Different snail species produce different mucin.
The part of the snail (e.g., foot vs. back) affects its properties.
How mucin is harvested can determine its potential effectiveness.
Most over-the-counter snail mucin products don’t clarify these details, so their benefits are not guaranteed.
Does Snail Mucin Clog Pores?
There’s no definitive research proving whether snail mucin is comedogenic. However, in my practice, I’ve seen tweens with extensive evidence of clogged pores and acne after using snail mucin products. It is almost as though every single pore is clogged necessitating the use of stronger acne medications to clear. I worry that I am seeing this at younger and younger ages that can progress to inflammatory and cystic acne with the risk of scarring. Without proper testing, it’s safer to assume that snail mucin may clog pores unless 3rd party testing is specified on your product.
Who Should (or Shouldn’t) Use Snail Mucin?
I recommend avoiding snail mucin unless the product specifies:
The snail species used.
The mucin’s source (foot, back, etc.).
Clinical evidence supporting effectiveness of the specific product you are using -- not just vague reference to medical studies that use particular types of snail mucin.
Third-party testing for comedogenicity.
Tweens and Skincare: What You Need to Know
I have been in practice for two decades and have had to place more tweens and young teens in recent months on aggressive anti-acne regimens than ever before. They routinely come in with bags of skin care products -- not makeup products, they have skincare products -- that are not made for their age group. Most of their products have marketing claims focused on highlighting one ingredient in the product. It is clear that many of these patients have not read the rest of the labels to see what else is in their products since many have redundant ingredients.
Important Steps for Tweens:
Cleanse daily with a gentle face wash.
Use a moisturizer suitable for young skin.
Always wear sunscreen to protect skin.
Stick to trusted drugstore brands like CeraVe, Neutrogena, and La Roche-Posay that prioritize safety and efficacy.
What to Avoid:
Skincare products with big claims like “anti-aging” or “anti-acne” unless prescribed.
Serums designed for older skin; they may not be routinely tested for the risk of clogging pores.
If the goal is to care for your skin, then care for it by not aggravating it or causing trouble. If you are looking to address a particular concern about your skin, talk to your dermatologist. If you are seeking to accentuate a feature or an aspect of your skin, makeup/cosmetic products may be a safer more affordable choice from a skin perspective. I recognize that for some parents choosing “dewy moisturizers” feels like a better choice over an illuminating powder to avoid makeup products at a younger age. However the question as to which is better boils down to which ones have taken the time to verify that they do not clog pores or add ingredients designed for older skin. Take a look at the Drunk Elephant products - I have not found non-comedogenic claims on these as of the writing of this piece but there are plenty of noncomedogenic illuminating powders that are a lot cheaper with the same effect.
Are There Unsafe Ingredients for Tweens?
Tweens often consider trendy products marketed with buzzwords like “dewy” or “glow” or may focus on products with lofty promises about clear skin. Many of these products were not created with younger skin in mind. If a tween wants to address specific concerns, consulting a dermatologist is always the best first step.
Snail Mucin Essence by Cosrx: What to Consider
One popular snail mucin product is the Snail Mucin Essence by Cosrx, but before buying remember the questions to ask about every snail mucin product:
Which snail species is the mucin derived from?
As of the writing of this piece, Cosrx does not provide this information, so proceed cautiously.
What part of the snail was used?
According to their website, snails "are placed over a mesh in a dark and quiet room, where they are left to freely roam about leaving mucin in their trails..." This implies the mucin obtained is from the feet or bottom of the snail. The purpose of this particular type of mucin is to serve as an adherent and barrier property for the snail. This mucin is less likely to have direct antimicrobial or antioxidant properties as it tends to be thicker and designed to protect by creating a barrier. As of the writing of this piece, I could not find evidence of this product being tested for its pore clogging potential.
How was the mucin extracted?
Based on the website, the mucin left behind by snails after roaming about is retrieved. This appears to be from the bottom of the snail and not the back. This type of mucin is stickier and may not have the known benefits of mucin found in studies that retrieve mucin from the back of the snails.
Has the product been tested for pore-clogging properties?
As of the writing of this piece, Cosrx does not provide this information, so proceed cautiously.
Final Thoughts on Skincare
Whether you’re considering snail mucin or exploring skincare for tweens, understanding what’s in your products is essential. Focus on trusted brands, consult a dermatologist when in doubt, and remember: great skin starts with simplicity and care.
FAQ Section
What is snail mucin in skincare?
Snail mucin is a secretion from snails, found recently in skincare for its potential hydrating, barrier-repairing, and soothing properties.
Does snail mucin clog pores?
Snail mucin may clog pores, especially if the product lacks third-party testing for comedogenicity. Use with caution, particularly on acne-prone skin.
Is snail mucin safe for tweens?
Most snail mucin products are not designed for younger skin and may cause irritation or clogged pores. Tweens should focus on basic skincare.
How can I choose the right snail mucin product?
Look for products that specify the snail species, the part of the snail used, and provide clinical evidence of safety and effectiveness.
What are alternatives to snail mucin in skincare?
For hydration and skin repair, consider trusted ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, or niacinamide, which are backed by robust research.
References
Singh N, Brown AN, Gold MH. Snail extract for skin: A review of uses, projections, and limitations. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;23(4):1113-1121. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16269. Epub 2024 Mar 1. PMID: 38429932.
COSRX. (n.d.). Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence. Retrieved December 13, 2024, from https://www.cosrx.com/products/advanced-snail-96-mucin-power-essence
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